Queens. Yes, it’s one of the 5 boroughs of NYC. No, it is not a place that I frequent. When someone mentions Queens I immediately think of long train rides and delays. Not fun. However, on Saturday I found myself in Astoria, Queens meeting a group of friends for drinks and off to what was labeled “a real meal.” I balked at the comment and said, “If I wanted a real meal I would have stayed in Manhattan.” Landrew, who was born and raised in Astoria looked at me and said “Girl, you don’t know what real food is until you eat at Stamatis.”
After a few drinks at a neighboring bar our party of four arrives at Stamatis a Greek restaurant located on Ditmars Blvd in Astoria. From the outside it looks like every other Astoria storefront resplendent with benches out front for those times where there is a wait. Not one to write off a restaurant for its building facade, I follow my troupe inside. Immediately to the left is an open kitchen bustling with energy and a fresh seafood display. I stop to take a look at what was being served – octopus, red snapper, flounder and more. My anticipation for dinner begins. To manage expectations the interior needs an update – it’s far from the glitz and glam of most NYC restaurants. But hey, to keep things in perspective I’ve come to eat the food not take design advice from their interior decorator. As we approach the host area we see a large, cavernous room with a sea of tables. There is a sweet outdoor area perfect for romantic meal for two and al fresco dining.
The host, who also became our waiter, knew Landrew and gave him a big hug and pat on the back. Our party was quickly ushered through to a large corner table with a view of the entire room. Nice. Before I even remove my coat and settle into my seat, wine was brought to the table. Now, we’re talking. We all sit and Landrew leans over to me and says, “Prepare to be amazed, this is where the Greeks come to eat.”
As we sip our wine and take in the room, our waiter arrives with menus. The red wine is a Greek table wine that I could drink all day – robust, bold and delicious. I look through the menu and no pun intended it’s all Greek to me. I turn to Landrew and said, ” Why don’t you order for the table.” He jumped at the opportunity and began rattling off what seemed like a lot of food but I was hungry so I didn’t mind at all.
We start with a feta salad with fresh tomatoes, kalamata olives, cucumbers, and red onions tossed with shredded iceberg lettuce. The salad is served Greek style (without dressing), you can, if you like, pour olive oil or vinegar on top but that is not how the Greeks do it. The salad was fresh, crisp and delicious. The freshness of the vegetables and greens made me wonder if there was a garden in the back; this level of freshness is not typical restaurant fare.
The second course was the star of the meal – grilled octopus. Let me say this – I travel to the Amalfi Coast of Italy every summer and always thought their grilled octopus was the be-all and end-all; best I would ever find. I am here to tell you; after eating the grilled octopus at Stamatis, I stand corrected. Hmmm, maybe the trip to Queens is not bad after all. The grilled octopus had a nice char on the outside and literally melted in my mouth. When the waiter came over to check on the table and asks how the meal is going, a huge smile comes across my face as I say, “this is awesome!” He grins and responds, “Glad you are enjoying yourself.” Feeling good from the second glass of wine I ask “what’s the secret to getting the octopus so tender?” He turns to leave and over his shoulder he says “buttermilk…soak the octopus in buttermilk before you grill it.” Ah, who knew?
Dining Greek style you can expect a series small dishes (called meze) served as appetizers to whet your appetite before the main dish. Already a bit full from the salad and octopus, I was not sure how much room would be left for the main course that I learned was 3 dishes away. Next we savored a Stamatis signature dish and a Greek classic, fried saganki, a cheese melted in a small (saganaki) frying pan until it bubbles and then served with fresh lemon squeezed on top. Very tasty! The fourth and fifth courses came in rapid fire succession so I knew we were coming to the end. Here we enjoyed a simple yet delicious zucchini croquette; creamy, light and so fresh you can see the shredded zucchini on the inside. And the fifth course was bieftik – a beef patty made with garlic and dill served with a taziki sauce. My eyes and mouth were in heaven. Everything was amazing.
The final course was a simple grilled whole red snapper, served and filleted at the table with a lemon olive oil sauce. Oh my! Outstanding. You know its good when the entire table is silent apart from the clicking of silverware on the plates and moans of pleasure with each bit taken.
Opening the top button on my jeans, yes, I was that full but loved every moment of this meal, one of my friends said, “I was in Paris a long time ago with my wife and we walked into a restaurant. The waiter asked us where we are from, we told him Astoria, Queens. He asked if we’ve been Stamatis.” he continues, “The place is legendary. Pretty amazing right?”
We all toast to that. You won’t be transported to Greece via the decor but the food will get you there. So, yes, get your self to Astoria. Make the effort. It is truly worth the trip.
Stamatis Restaurant
29-09 23rd Ave, Astoria, NY 11105
(718) 932-8596
