“If there’s a better fried chicken, I haven’t tasted it. First, and critically, the chicken is brined for 12 hours in a herb-lemon brine, which seasons the meat and helps it stay juicy. The flour is seasoned with garlic and onion powders, paprika, cayenne, salt, and pepper. The chicken is dredged in the seasoned flour, dipped in buttermilk, and then dredged again in the flour. The crust becomes almost feathered and is very crisp. Fried chicken is a great American tradition that’s fallen out of favor. A taste of this, and you will want it back in your weekly routine.” –Thomas Keller.
Buttermilk Fried Chicken
(Serves 4-6)
Ingredients
- Two 2 1/2- to 3-pound chickens (see Note on Chicken Size)
- Chicken Brine (recipe follows), cold
For Dredging and Frying
- Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
- 1 quart buttermilk
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Coating
- 6 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/4 cup garlic powder
- 1/4 cup onion powder
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cayenne
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Ground fleur de sel or fine sea salt
- Rosemary and thyme sprigs for garnish
Chicken Brine
Makes 2 gallons
- lemons, halved
- 24 bay leaves
- 1 bunch (4 ounces) flat-leaf parsley
- 1 bunch (1 ounce) thyme
- 1/2 cup clover honey
- 1 head garlic, halved through the equator
- 3/4 cup black peppercorns
- 2 cups (10 ounces) kosher salt, preferably Diamond Crystal
- 2 gallons water
The key ingredient here is the lemon, which goes wonderfully with
chicken, as do the herbs: bay leaf, parsley, and thyme. This amount of brine will be enough for 10 pounds.
Combine all the Brine ingredients in a large pot, cover, and bring to a boil.
Boil for 1 minute, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat
and cool completely, then chill before using. The brine can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Full Recipe Below
Ad Hoc at Home was voted by Amazon.com as one of the Best Books of the
Month, November 2009. As reviewed on Amazon: “You don’t often see the
name Thomas Keller mixed with words like “accessible” or “home cook,”
but with Ad Hoc at Home, the award-winning chef presents a collection
of recipes destined for the center of the table at casual family
gatherings. Don’t throw away your whole notion of “quick and easy,”
though, as this is still a casual cookbook filtered through the genius
mind of the man behind The French Laundry Cookbook, but the sense of
whimsy and the pure joy of Keller doing his version of comfort food
proves irresistible. The inspiration for his restaurant Ad Hoc was the
simple family meals created and served by the staff at his
restaurants. As he says in the introduction, “here is food meant to be
served from big bowls and platters passed hand to hand at the table.”
And with dishes like Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Pineapple Upside-Down
Cake, who’s going to argue with that?
Directions
- Cut each chicken into 10 pieces: 2 legs, 2 thighs, 4 breast quarters,
and 2 wings. Pour the brine into a container large enough to hold the chicken pieces, add in the chicken, and refrigerate for 12 hours (no longer, or the chicken may become too salty). - Remove the chicken from the brine (discard the brine) and rinse under
cold water, removing any herbs or spices sticking to the skin. Pat dry with paper towels, or let air-dry. Let rest at room temperature for 1-1/2 hours, or until it comes to room temperature. - If you have two large pots (about 6 inches deep) and a lot of oil, you
can cook the dark and white meat at the same time; if not, cook the
dark meat first, then turn up the heat and cook the white meat. No matter
what size pot you have, the oil should not come more than one-third of
the way up the sides of the pot. Fill the pot with at least 2 inches of
peanut oil and heat to 320°F. Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet.
Line a second baking sheet with parchment paper. - Meanwhile, combine all the coating ingredients in a large bowl.
Transfer half the coating to a second large bowl. Pour the buttermilk
into a third bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set up a dipping station:
the chicken pieces, one bowl of coating, the bowl of buttermilk, the second bowl of coating, and the parchment-lined baking sheet. - Just before frying, dip the chicken thighs into the first bowl of
coating, turning to coat and patting off the excess; dip them into the
buttermilk, allowing the excess to run back into the bowl; then dip them into the
second bowl of coating. Transfer to the parchment-lined pan. - Carefully lower the thighs into the hot oil. Adjust the heat as
necessary to return the oil to the proper temperature. Fry for 2
minutes, then carefully move the chicken pieces around in the oil and continue to
fry, monitoring the oil temperature and turning the pieces as necessary
for even cooking, for 11 to 12 minutes, until the chicken is a deep golden
brown, cooked through, and very crisp. Meanwhile, coat the chicken drumsticks and transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet. - Transfer the cooked thighs to the cooling rack skin-side-up and let
rest while you fry the remaining chicken. (Putting the pieces
skin-side-up will allow excess fat to drain, whereas leaving them skin-side-down
could trap some of the fat.) Make sure that the oil is at the correct temperature, and cook the chicken drumsticks. When the drumsticks are
done, lean them meat-side-up against the thighs to drain, then sprinkle the chicken with fine sea salt. - Turn up the heat and heat the oil to 340°F.
- Meanwhile, coat the chicken
breasts and wings. Carefully lower the chicken breasts into the hot oil
and fry for 7 minutes, or until golden brown, cooked through, and
crisp. Transfer to the rack, sprinkle with salt, and turn skin side up.
Cook the wings for 6 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Transfer
the wings to the rack and turn off the heat. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter. Add the herb sprigs to the oil (which will still be
hot) and let them cook and crisp for a few seconds, then arrange them
over the chicken. - Note on Chicken Size: You may need to go to a farmers’ market to get
these small chickens. Grocery store chickens often run 3 to 4 pounds. They can, of course, be used in this recipe but if chickens in the
2-1/2- to 3-pound range are available to you, they’re worth seeking
out.They’re a little easier to cook properly at the temperatures we
recommend here and, most important, pieces this size result in the
optimal meat-to-crust proportion, which is such an important part of the pleasure of fried chicken.
Note: We let the chicken rest for 7 to 10 minutes after it comes out of
the fryer so that it has a chance to cool down. If the chicken has
rested for longer than 10 minutes, put the tray of chicken in a 400°F oven for
a minute or two to ensure that the crust is crisp and the chicken is
hot.
